Like many of my books, I can’t quite remember where I bought Mrs Beeton’s Every-day Cookery. It was probably a church book sale on George Street here in Edinburgh a few years ago. I paid £15 for it—not a lot, and it’s in remarkably good condition. Considering its age, it’s almost like new, which I find a shame. It hasn’t been thumbed through enough, hasn’t been splattered with flour, grease, and egg whites. The pages are too clean! No dribbles from separating yolks from whites, no signs of serious kitchen use.
The number of recipes is unbelievable, and they all read very well, with a touch of tradional charm. There’s a definite French influence throughout, but it’s great to see British dishes championed too—think Yorkshire ginger cake, veal and ham pie, toad in the hole, and of course, roast snipe (which I haven’t eaten in years). It’s more than just a cookbook, though. Mrs Beeton was known for her household management advice, and this is essentially a manual for running a home. How to clean your tortoiseshell, what equipment you need, how many servants to have—it’s all in there.
This book was incredibly popular, selling many copies and making a fortune from both sales and advertising. Sadly, Isabella Beeton died at just 28, in 1865. She was married to an ambitious publisher and magazine editor who had her write recipes and household advice for his magazines and books. Some people criticise her work, others are in awe. Personally, I’m staggered by how much she knew at such a young age. Maybe people matured faster back then, becoming worldly-wise sooner.
Most households, at some point, had a copy of one of her books. I have at least half a dozen and find them endlessly fascinating. She was an educated woman who knew a lot about food, spoke both French and German, and even translated great works from French to English. Her books are full of beautiful engravings and images. What stove should I buy? What mangle is best? How do I clean my rug? It’s all in there—a perfect read for a wet and windy day with a mug of tea and a biscuit.
