NEIL'S RECIPES: SHORTBREAD

“It really would not be Christmas or the festive season without shortbread. Whenever I make shortbread, I always think of my mum’s and gran’s recipes, from where this originates. Here we make them into large coin-size discs and bake them, whereas my gran made it in a tray and cut fingers with lashings of sugar sprinkled on top, and it had a softness to it which, as a child, was wonderful and a lovely memory to have.”

Makes around 15 biscuits

INGREDIENTS

250g unsalted butter, diced to room temperature

125g unrefined caster sugar

300g plain flour

80g corn flour

Extra caster sugar for dredging

METHOD

Whip the butter and sugar in a mixer until light and fluffy, then gently and carefully sift in the flour and corn flour. Not whilst the machine is on! Fold in, being careful not to over mix at this stage.

Roll the dough into 2 sausage shapes, about the width of a £2 coin. Wrap in cling film and leave in the fridge overnight.

Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into 1cm-thick discs and lay on a baking tray lined with parchment and bake in pre-heated oven (135°C to 150°C) for 45 minutes, or until they start turning golden at the edges. Allow to cool, then dredge with extra sugar. 

Neil's Recipes: Oatcakes with Smoked Trout and Crème Fraîche

“This is such a simple canapé. I use trout instead of salmon as I think it is better environmentally. The oatcakes are delicious and can also be used with cheese. A simple nibble to have available when folk visit is a good thing. This goes great with a glass of fizz.” 

This recipe will make about 50 £2 coin sized oatcakes that will keep in an airtight tub for a week.

INGREDIENTS

For the oatcakes:

500g pinhead oats

100g porridge oats

40g plain flour

1teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

150g bacon fat, lard or butter, melted

30g sugar

15g salt

Approximately 500ml water, or buttermilk, which makes for a really rich oatcake

For the topping:

A few slices of smoked trout, I get mine from Belhaven

Enough crème fraîche for a dollop on each oatcake, I like Katy Rodgers

A few cornichons, or pickled cucumbers

A few chives

METHOD

Mix all the oatcake ingredients together and trickle in the water, or buttermilk, a little at a time. If you are using a mixer or food processor, combine until you have a good dough.

Roll the dough into 4 sausage shapes, about the width of a £2 coin, then wrap in cling film and store in the fridge until firm. Then slice into ½-cm thick discs using a very sharp, serrated knife. Cook on a pre-heated girdle, or heavy-based frying pan, rubbed with a little lard or butter, for a couple of minutes on each side. Finish cooking them in a low oven (125°C) for about 30 to 40 minutes, or until golden and crisp. 

To serve, top each oatcake with a few flakes of smoked trout, a slice of cornichon or pickled cucumber, a dollop of crème fraîche and snipped chives. Perfect!

NEIL'S RECIPES: CHEESE STRAWS

“These are a classic - very easy to make and a great way to use up bits and bobs of cheese tucked away at the back of the fridge. Sometimes I roll the mix out on a floured surface, brush with egg wash and sprinkle with poppy and sesame seeds, but the classic straw is great, and the perfect garnish for a bowl of soup.”

Serves 6 to 8

Prep time: 20 minutes; cooking time 15 to 20 minutes

INGREDIENTS

200g good, strong cheddar or any hard cheese like Mull or Corra Linn, finely grated

190g plain flour, sifted

150g unsalted butter, diced and soft

1 egg

A pinch of good salt

A pinch of paprika pepper

Extra flour for rolling

METHOD

Pre-heat the oven to 190°C.

Combine the flour and butter in a bowl with the seasoning, then mix in the cheese, before adding the egg to form a dough.

Roll the dough out on a floured surface into a rectangle about 1cm thick. Cut into 1cm-wide strips with a sharp knife and lay the straws on a non-stick baking sheet.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. They may take a wee bit longer depending on your oven.

Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool. Serve with some dips like a horseradish crème fraîche or a salsa.

NEIL'S RECIPES: BUTTERMILK PUDDING WITH SPICED PLUM CRUMBLE

"This pudding is similar to panna cotta but way better. The recipe comes from a chef at Ballintaggart Farm, a wonderful place in the Perthshire hills, who scribbled this recipe down for me when working at Cafe St Honoré for a few days. Served here with gently roasted plums and a crunchy crumble topping with a hint of spice. Remember to cool the pudding in the jug in the fridge and stir occasionally before pouring into the mould otherwise the vanilla seeds will sink to the bottom."

Serves 4
Prep time 1 hour, cooking time 45 minutes

INGREDIENTS

500ml buttermilk

200ml double cream

1 vanilla pod, split and seeds removed

6 ½ leaves of gelatine

150g unrefined caster sugar

4 plums, halved and stones removed

50g plain flour

50g jumbo oats

40g dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon of mixed spice

25g butter

1 teaspoon of honey

Edible flowers, optional

METHOD

Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft.

Bring the buttermilk, cream, sugar and vanilla to the boil on the hob. Turn off the heat and leave for few minutes to extract the vanilla flavour.

Add the gelatine to the pot and mix well. Pass through a fine sieve into a jug. Place the jug in the fridge to cool for 45 minutes, removing every few minutes to whisk.

Once cool, pour into dariole moulds or tea cups and chill in the fridge for a good 5 to 6 hours or overnight.

Heat the oven to 180°C.

To make the crumble, mix the dry ingredients, honey and butter together. Arrange the halved plums in an oven-proof dish and top with the crumble mixture. Bake in the oven for 20 to 40 minutes, or until the plums are soft and the crumble has browned. Serve warm along side the chilled buttermilk puddings. Garnish with a few edible flowers.

NEIL'S RECIPES: VENISON COTTAGE PIE

“At this time of year we crave simple old classics like cottage pie. Use healthy, lean venison, but don’t hold back on the topping — mashed potato enriched with cream and butter is a must. Brushed with egg wash for a golden, crunchy crust, it’s utterly divine after a long autumn dog walk. Plus, there’ll be plenty left for another day.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

400g of lean, very good venison mince

4 tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil

150g of mixed diced vegetables, such as carrots, celeriac, turnip and onion

1 bay leaf

A sprig of thyme

1 litre of very good beef or game stock, chicken stock would do - any leftover gravy is good to add here

1kg potatoes

200ml double cream – heated

100g butter

1 egg, beaten

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Heat the oven to 160°C.

Heat a large ovenproof pot (with a lid) on the hob - get it quite hot – then add half the oil. When smoking, add the venison mince. Keep the heat up and keep stirring until the mince is nicely browned, this should take 7 to 8 minutes. Drain through a sieve and reserve.

Bring the same pot back up to a high heat and add the remaining oil. Fry the veg for around 6 to 8 minutes. The more colour you add, the more flavour your pie will have. Then add the thyme, the bay leaf and the drained venison mince. Combine whilst still on a high heat and season with salt and pepper. Next add the stock and any leftover gravy and bring to the boil.

Once boiling, remove from the heat and cover with a lid. Then place the pot in the oven to simmer for 2 hours, stirring every half hour or so. Then remove the lid and cook for a further hour, stirring every 15 minutes. It should reach a rich, thick mince or stew consistency. Remove from the oven and transfer to a serving dish.

For the mash, boil the potatoes in salted water, drain and pass through a potato ricer. Stir in the hot cream and butter.

Top the pie with the mash. Use a piping bag to create a decorative design, or spread the mash with a palette knife and use a fork to create ridges.

Brush all over with a beaten egg and brown in a very hot oven or under a piping hot grill. Serve at once with some cabbage or greens cooked with a little beef fat left over from Sunday lunch.

NEIL'S RECIPES: PEASEMEAL AND HAM SOUP

“This soup is hearty, warming, and perfect for the chillier months. Peasemeal is a lesser-known pulse — a flour made from dried yellow peas, whisked into hot stock to create a rich, comforting soup. Enjoyed by generations of Scots, it’s delicious with tender flakes of hough meat.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS 

4 tablespoons peasemeal

500ml hot stock or water (ham stock is good)

A knob of butter

A handful of leftover gammon or ham (or cook a ham hock and flake the meat off - after braising for 3 hours in just water, retain the stock for the soup)

Salt and pepper

A large pinch of curly parsley, roughly chopped

METHOD

Boil the stock or water and season with salt and pepper. Add the butter.

Next, add the peasemeal flour to the hot liquid and whisk vigorously for a few minutes. Check the seasoning and add more butter if required.

Let it bubble for a minute then pour into warm bowls. If it seems too thick, just add a little more liquid.

Crumble on the ham, gammon or hock and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve steaming hot.

NEIL'S RECIPES: LEMON TART WITH PERTHSHIRE RASPBERRIES

“What a great way to use autumn raspberries — bake a rich and elegant fresh lemon tart. I like to dust it with icing sugar and blast it with a blowtorch to add texture; it works so well with a spoon of crème fraîche. It’s like a brûlée but on steroids — utterly indulgent.”

Serves 8 to 10
Prep time 30 minutes; cooking time: about 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

1 10-inch pre-baked sweet pastry tart case

I egg, beaten for an egg wash

4 organic lemons, zested and juiced

9 eggs, beaten

375g caster sugar

300ml double cream

Extra sugar for glazing, about a teaspoon per slice

Perthshire raspberries to serve

METHOD

Heat the oven to 140°C

Brush the tart case with egg wash to ensure it’s sealed and no leaks will occur. Place on an oven tray.

Gently whisk together the lemon juice, lemon zest, eggs, cream and sugar adding each ingredient one at a time. Allow to settle for half an hour, skimming any bubbles from the top of the mix. Pass through a fine sieve to remove the zest and any impurities.

Pour the mix into the tart case, being careful not to overfill it. Place in the oven for an hour. Gently is the way to go here, all appliances are different and if your oven runs hot, reduce the temperature and the length of time you cook it.  

Remove from the oven once the wobble stops being runny and allow to cool, in a cold room if possible.

When ready to eat, cut a portion and sprinkle over a teaspoon of sugar. Glaze with a blow torch, or flash under a very hot grill until caramelised. Serve with raspberries and a dollop of crème fraîche.

NEIL'S RECIPES: FLAPJACKS

“Flapjacks seem to be one of those sweet treats that we all know, but no-one really talks about. I adore their sweet oaty taste. Perfect served with a cuppa.”

Makes 18 finger-sized bars

INGREDIENTS

500g porridge oats

250g jumbo oats

375g unsalted butter

375g dark brown soft muscovado sugar

10 tablespoons of golden syrup

Nuts, seeds or dried fruit as desired

METHOD

Heat oven to 180°C.

Melt the butter over a very low heat then slowly stir in the brown sugar until dissolved.

Add the oats and give it a good mix. You may need to do this in a large mixing bowl.

Add nuts and fruit, stir.

Line a baking tray with a smear of oil and then a layer of greaseproof paper. The oil helps to stick the paper in place.

Spread the mix into the tray, pressing it down firmly with a palette knife. It can be thick or thin, depending on the size of your tray.

Bake for around 20 minutes, or until it begins to turn golden brown.

Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. Then turn out of the tray, remove the paper, and cut into desired shapes.

NEIL'S RECIPES: ROAST PARTRIDGE, CONFIT LEG, WATERCRESS, CRAB APPLE JELLY

“I like this for its simplicity. The jelly works well with the rich meat, and we always confit the legs of birds as, if just simply roasted, they can be a bit chewy. You don’t want to overcook the breasts as they should be a touch pink. This is a delicious and inexpensive dish to try.”

Serves 4

Prep time 30 minutes, cooking time 2 hours

INGREDIENTS

4 grey or red legged partridge, legs removed

4 bunches of watercress, washed200g crab apples, washed and cut into pieces

200g unrefined caster sugar

1 glass Madeira

250ml pint of good beef or chicken stock

250ml pint duck fat,1 tablespoon cold-pressed rapeseed oil

2 knobs of butter

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Begin by making the crab apple jelly. Place the apples in a pot and cover with water. Bring to the boil and simmer for about an hour until the fruit is soft and mushy. 

Pass through a fine sieve into a clean pan and add the sugar. Bring to the boil carefully - it will splutter like jam - stirring continuously on a moderate heat for about an hour until the mix has thickened and has turned a deep red. It may take a while longer. 

Allow to cool then chill the jelly in the fridge for a day. This jelly is also excellent with cheese, like a quince paste. 

Heat the oven to 180°C.

Next, confit the partridge legs by submerging them in the duck fat in a pan on a on a low heat. When starting to boil, place in the oven for a couple of hours. 

Next, roast the partridge crowns. Place an oven-proof frying pan on the hob and add the oil. Fry the partridge all over for a few minutes then add some butter and allow the meat to brown. Season with salt and pepper and place in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes until just golden, remove from the pan and allow to rest in a warm place for 5 to 7 minutes.

To make a sauce, add the Madeira to the same frying pan and deglaze by bringing it to the boil and reducing by two thirds. Then add the stock and reduce again by two thirds. Add a knob of butter and check the consistency and seasoning. 

To serve, remove the breasts from the bone and place the drained legs on top. Spoon the sauce over the meat and garnish with watercress and a dollop of crab apple jelly. Serve with a bread sauce if desired.

NEIL'S RECIPES: PUMPKIN SOUP WITH TOASTED SEEDS & CRÈME FRAÎCHE

“A warming treat of a bowl of soup with good bread is perfect to come into from the garden or a long dog walk. I like a crown prince variety, but butternut squash will do just as well. There are many different types, so have fun playing around with different ones and a different garnish — perhaps chopped herbs and some cream or toasted nuts.”

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes; Cooking time: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

1 large or 2 small onions, peeled and roughly chopped

2 large cloves of garlic, smashed, peeled and chopped

500g flesh of a good firm pumpkin or a butternut squash, roughly chopped

1 cinnamon stick

1 bouquet garni

2 tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil

50g unsalted butter

1 large tablespoon of toasted pumpkin seeds

1 tablespoon of toasted hazelnuts, smashed

A few chives, finely chopped

4 teaspoons crème fraîche

2 tablespoons of cream for blending, optional

Good salt and pepper

Good oil for a drizzle

METHOD

Heat oven to 210C / Gas Mark 7

Heat one tablespoon of rapeseed oil in a pan and fry the onions and garlic with a little salt for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the butter and lower the heat to moderate and continue to cook the onions for 15 minutes or so until they are caramelised but not burnt.

As the onions cook, place the chopped pumpkin onto a baking tray and drizzle with the remaining rapeseed oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes until soft and browned. Remove from the oven and add to the onions in the pan. Then add the cinnamon stick, bouquet garni and season with salt and pepper. Pour in just enough boiling water from the kettle to cover the contents and turn the heat back on.

Cook the soup on a moderate heat - turning down if too bubbly - for 15 minutes or so until all the flavours are combined. Remove the cinnamon stick and bouquet garni and blitz in a food jug blender or with a hand blender until silky. Sometimes I add a little cream to the soup as I’m blending, but it’s up to you. Then I would recommend passing the soup through a fine sieve to remove any fibres from the pumpkin.

Ladle the soup into warm bowls and top with toasted hazelnuts, pumpkin seeds, a dollop of crème fraîche, a sprinkling of chives and a drizzle of oil.