NEIL'S RECIPES: PEASEMEAL AND HAM SOUP

“This soup is hearty, warming, and perfect for the chillier months. Peasemeal is a lesser-known pulse — a flour made from dried yellow peas, whisked into hot stock to create a rich, comforting soup. Enjoyed by generations of Scots, it’s delicious with tender flakes of hough meat.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS 

4 tablespoons peasemeal

500ml hot stock or water (ham stock is good)

A knob of butter

A handful of leftover gammon or ham (or cook a ham hock and flake the meat off - after braising for 3 hours in just water, retain the stock for the soup)

Salt and pepper

A large pinch of curly parsley, roughly chopped

METHOD

Boil the stock or water and season with salt and pepper. Add the butter.

Next, add the peasemeal flour to the hot liquid and whisk vigorously for a few minutes. Check the seasoning and add more butter if required.

Let it bubble for a minute then pour into warm bowls. If it seems too thick, just add a little more liquid.

Crumble on the ham, gammon or hock and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve steaming hot.

NEIL'S RECIPES: VENISON COTTAGE PIE

“At this time of year we crave simple old classics like cottage pie. Use healthy, lean venison, but don’t hold back on the topping — mashed potato enriched with cream and butter is a must. Brushed with egg wash for a golden, crunchy crust, it’s utterly divine after a long autumn dog walk. Plus, there’ll be plenty left for another day.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

400g of lean, very good venison mince

4 tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil

150g of mixed diced vegetables, such as carrots, celeriac, turnip and onion

1 bay leaf

A sprig of thyme

1 litre of very good beef or game stock, chicken stock would do - any leftover gravy is good to add here

1kg potatoes

200ml double cream – heated

100g butter

1 egg, beaten

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Heat the oven to 160°C.

Heat a large ovenproof pot (with a lid) on the hob - get it quite hot – then add half the oil. When smoking, add the venison mince. Keep the heat up and keep stirring until the mince is nicely browned, this should take 7 to 8 minutes. Drain through a sieve and reserve.

Bring the same pot back up to a high heat and add the remaining oil. Fry the veg for around 6 to 8 minutes. The more colour you add, the more flavour your pie will have. Then add the thyme, the bay leaf and the drained venison mince. Combine whilst still on a high heat and season with salt and pepper. Next add the stock and any leftover gravy and bring to the boil.

Once boiling, remove from the heat and cover with a lid. Then place the pot in the oven to simmer for 2 hours, stirring every half hour or so. Then remove the lid and cook for a further hour, stirring every 15 minutes. It should reach a rich, thick mince or stew consistency. Remove from the oven and transfer to a serving dish.

For the mash, boil the potatoes in salted water, drain and pass through a potato ricer. Stir in the hot cream and butter.

Top the pie with the mash. Use a piping bag to create a decorative design, or spread the mash with a palette knife and use a fork to create ridges.

Brush all over with a beaten egg and brown in a very hot oven or under a piping hot grill. Serve at once with some cabbage or greens cooked with a little beef fat left over from Sunday lunch.

NEIL'S RECIPES: LEMON TART WITH PERTHSHIRE RASPBERRIES

“What a great way to use autumn raspberries — bake a rich and elegant fresh lemon tart. I like to dust it with icing sugar and blast it with a blowtorch to add texture; it works so well with a spoon of crème fraîche. It’s like a brûlée but on steroids — utterly indulgent.”

Serves 8 to 10
Prep time 30 minutes; cooking time: about 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

1 10-inch pre-baked sweet pastry tart case

I egg, beaten for an egg wash

4 organic lemons, zested and juiced

9 eggs, beaten

375g caster sugar

300ml double cream

Extra sugar for glazing, about a teaspoon per slice

Perthshire raspberries to serve

METHOD

Heat the oven to 140°C

Brush the tart case with egg wash to ensure it’s sealed and no leaks will occur. Place on an oven tray.

Gently whisk together the lemon juice, lemon zest, eggs, and sugar adding each ingredient one at a time. Allow to settle for half an hour, skimming any bubbles from the top of the mix. Pass through a fine sieve to remove the zest and any impurities.

Pour the mix into the tart case, being careful not to overfill it. Place in the oven for an hour. Gently is the way to go here, all appliances are different and if your oven runs hot, reduce the temperature and the length of time you cook it.  

Remove from the oven once the wobble stops being runny and allow to cool, in a cold room if possible.

When ready to eat, cut a portion and sprinkle over a teaspoon of sugar. Glaze with a blow torch, or flash under a very hot grill until caramelised. Serve with raspberries and a dollop of crème fraîche.

NEIL'S RECIPES: FLAPJACKS

“Flapjacks seem to be one of those sweet treats that we all know, but no-one really talks about. I adore their sweet oaty taste. Perfect served with a cuppa.”

Makes 18 finger-sized bars

INGREDIENTS

500g porridge oats

250g jumbo oats

375g unsalted butter

375g dark brown soft muscovado sugar

10 tablespoons of golden syrup

Nuts, seeds or dried fruit as desired

METHOD

Heat oven to 180°C.

Melt the butter over a very low heat then slowly stir in the brown sugar until dissolved.

Add the oats and give it a good mix. You may need to do this in a large mixing bowl.

Add nuts and fruit, stir.

Line a baking tray with a smear of oil and then a layer of greaseproof paper. The oil helps to stick the paper in place.

Spread the mix into the tray, pressing it down firmly with a palette knife. It can be thick or thin, depending on the size of your tray.

Bake for around 20 minutes, or until it begins to turn golden brown.

Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. Then turn out of the tray, remove the paper, and cut into desired shapes.

NEIL'S RECIPES: ROAST PARTRIDGE, CONFIT LEG, WATERCRESS, CRAB APPLE JELLY

“I like this for its simplicity. The jelly works well with the rich meat, and we always confit the legs of birds as, if just simply roasted, they can be a bit chewy. You don’t want to overcook the breasts as they should be a touch pink. This is a delicious and inexpensive dish to try.”

Serves 4

Prep time 30 minutes, cooking time 2 hours

INGREDIENTS

4 grey or red legged partridge, legs removed

4 bunches of watercress, washed200g crab apples, washed and cut into pieces

200g unrefined caster sugar

1 glass Madeira

250ml pint of good beef or chicken stock

250ml pint duck fat,1 tablespoon cold-pressed rapeseed oil

2 knobs of butter

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Begin by making the crab apple jelly. Place the apples in a pot and cover with water. Bring to the boil and simmer for about an hour until the fruit is soft and mushy. 

Pass through a fine sieve into a clean pan and add the sugar. Bring to the boil carefully - it will splutter like jam - stirring continuously on a moderate heat for about an hour until the mix has thickened and has turned a deep red. It may take a while longer. 

Allow to cool then chill the jelly in the fridge for a day. This jelly is also excellent with cheese, like a quince paste. 

Heat the oven to 180°C.

Next, confit the partridge legs by submerging them in the duck fat in a pan on a on a low heat. When starting to boil, place in the oven for a couple of hours. 

Next, roast the partridge crowns. Place an oven-proof frying pan on the hob and add the oil. Fry the partridge all over for a few minutes then add some butter and allow the meat to brown. Season with salt and pepper and place in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes until just golden, remove from the pan and allow to rest in a warm place for 5 to 7 minutes.

To make a sauce, add the Madeira to the same frying pan and deglaze by bringing it to the boil and reducing by two thirds. Then add the stock and reduce again by two thirds. Add a knob of butter and check the consistency and seasoning. 

To serve, remove the breasts from the bone and place the drained legs on top. Spoon the sauce over the meat and garnish with watercress and a dollop of crab apple jelly. Serve with a bread sauce if desired.

NEIL'S RECIPES: PUMPKIN SOUP WITH TOASTED SEEDS & CRÈME FRAÎCHE

“A warming treat of a bowl of soup with good bread is perfect to come into from the garden or a long dog walk. I like a crown prince variety, but butternut squash will do just as well. There are many different types, so have fun playing around with different ones and a different garnish — perhaps chopped herbs and some cream or toasted nuts.”

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes; Cooking time: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

1 large or 2 small onions, peeled and roughly chopped

2 large cloves of garlic, smashed, peeled and chopped

500g flesh of a good firm pumpkin or a butternut squash, roughly chopped

1 cinnamon stick

1 bouquet garni

2 tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil

50g unsalted butter

1 large tablespoon of toasted pumpkin seeds

1 tablespoon of toasted hazelnuts, smashed

A few chives, finely chopped

4 teaspoons crème fraîche

2 tablespoons of cream for blending, optional

Good salt and pepper

Good oil for a drizzle

METHOD

Heat oven to 210C / Gas Mark 7

Heat one tablespoon of rapeseed oil in a pan and fry the onions and garlic with a little salt for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the butter and lower the heat to moderate and continue to cook the onions for 15 minutes or so until they are caramelised but not burnt.

As the onions cook, place the chopped pumpkin onto a baking tray and drizzle with the remaining rapeseed oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes until soft and browned. Remove from the oven and add to the onions in the pan. Then add the cinnamon stick, bouquet garni and season with salt and pepper. Pour in just enough boiling water from the kettle to cover the contents and turn the heat back on.

Cook the soup on a moderate heat - turning down if too bubbly - for 15 minutes or so until all the flavours are combined. Remove the cinnamon stick and bouquet garni and blitz in a food jug blender or with a hand blender until silky. Sometimes I add a little cream to the soup as I’m blending, but it’s up to you. Then I would recommend passing the soup through a fine sieve to remove any fibres from the pumpkin.

Ladle the soup into warm bowls and top with toasted hazelnuts, pumpkin seeds, a dollop of crème fraîche, a sprinkling of chives and a drizzle of oil.

NEIL'S RECIPES: PLUM AND FRANGIPANE TART

“Many of you will have had this divine dish at the restaurant or from my farmers’ market stall. It’s relatively simple to make, and always serve it warm as it really comes alive. The jury is out about blind baking the pastry first. I like to, although it isn’t essential. But be careful you don’t get a soggy bottom — blind baking stops that from happening. Serve with your favourite cream, ice cream or crème fraîche.”

Serves 10
Prep time: 50 minutes; cooking time 1hour 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS

10-inch sweet pastry tart case, chilled and rested

Around 12-15 good plums

½ teaspoon mixed spice

½ teaspoon caster sugar

125g caster sugar

125g unsalted butter, softened

125g ground almonds

50g plain flour, sifted

3 whole eggs beaten

A handful of flaked almonds

200ml double cream

1 tablespoon icing sugar, sifted

1/3 vanilla pod, seeds scraped

Extra icing sugar for dusting

METHOD

Pre-heat oven to 200°C.

Halve and stone the plums then dust with mixed spice and sugar. Cook on a tray in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes. When the plums are cold, set to one side. Leave a few aside for serving.

Reduce oven to 150/160°C. 

Make the frangipane by creaming the butter and caster sugar until it’s nice and smooth. Then add the ground almonds and beaten eggs, mixing carefully. Then add the flour and combine. Spread one third in the prepared tart case and smooth over with a wet palette knife. Next, add half the plums reserved for the tart and spread them out. Top with another third of frangipane and smooth down. Then add the rest of the plums reserved for the tart and finish with the remaining frangipane. Smooth over well with a wet palette knife and top with the flaked almonds.

Place on a metal tray and bake for 1 to 1.5 hours. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. It will be easier to remove from the tart case when it’s just warm. It’s tricky to cut when it’s hot.

To make the crème Chantilly, whip the double cream to almost firm peak stage then add the sifted icing sugar to taste – roughly 1 tablespoon. Add the vanilla seeds and stir.

To serve, cut slices from the tart and plate with a dollop of cream and any extra plums. Dust with icing sugar and enjoy.

NEIL'S RECIPES: BLACK PUDDING ROSTI & FRIED EGG

“This is great as a starter and equally great as a main course. The flavour from the black pudding seeps into the potato and makes for a tasty, rich and wholesome dish with just the right amount of crispness. The egg is optional, but I love a fried egg. There are many types of black pudding to try, so pick the one you like best. Potato variety too — have fun and experiment.”

Serves 4

20 minutes prep, 45 minutes cooking

INGREDIENTS

4 slices of black pudding, I like Stornoway

4 medium sized potatoes, I suggest a Rooster or Maris Piper, peeled and washed

100g of butter, melted

A knob of butter

A few thyme leaves

100ml cold-pressed rapeseed oil

4 organic eggs

A bunch of watercress

Good salt and pepper

1 teaspoon of Arran mustard

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon fruit vinegar, apple or cider is nice

To make the dressing, add the honey, vinegar and mustard to a bowl and whisk together whilst trickling in 50ml of cold-pressed rapeseed oil.

METHOD 

To make the potato cake, grate the potatoes into a tea towel, then season with salt and pepper and add a few thyme leaves. Gather the corners of the tea towel and squeeze the water out of the grated spuds.

Add the remaining oil to a large frying pan (or you can use 4 small blini pans) and place on the hob. Place the grated potato in a bowl, add the melted butter and stir. Place half of this mix in the pan so it covers the entire base, then place the black pudding slices on top of the potato leaving a gap around the edges. Then cover with the remaining grated potato creating a sandwich.

Cook until the base turns golden brown then carefully flip the whole potato cake over to cook the other side.

Next, add a knob of butter to a clean frying pan and fry the eggs. Don’t let the pan get too hot. Baste the eggs with the butter and season with salt and pepper.

To serve, cut the potato cake into wedges and serve with an egg, a handful of watercress and a trickle of that lovely dressing.

NEIL'S RECIPES: TABLET

“I have been making tablet for decades as my gran used to make it. It is far too sweet for me as I crave more savoury foods as I get older. It is a great nibble to go with coffee, or to bag up and give away as gifts, perhaps at Christmas. Just remember to brush your teeth after eating!”

This should make plenty for a celebration, or for guests visiting

INGREDIENTS

120g unsalted butter

800ml whole milk

800g condensed milk or home-made milk jam

1.8kg unrefined caster sugar

METHOD

If you would like to make your own milk jam, start this recipe by mixing 800ml of milk and 800g of sugar in a pot, then boiling them together until a thick cream consistency is achieved. It can be flavoured with vanilla if you like.

Oil a large roasting tray with sides and lay on a sheet of silicone paper.

Melt the butter along with the condensed milk (or milk jam) and the milk on a medium heat in a large, thick-bottomed pot. Then dissolve in the sugar.

Bring it to the boil on a moderate heat and stir as often as you possibly can. Be careful as this gets very hot, so wear an apron and gloves if you need to.

After 10 minute or so you will see the colour changing to a light brown, this is a good thing. It must be kept on the boil, so use the thermostat on your appliance to keep a steady and quite vigorous boil.

After around half an hour the mixture will be quite caramel in colour and the texture in the pot will change. It will almost start to solidify on the edge of the pot.

Once it reaches around 114.5°C it should be fine to set.

When you think it’s ready, remove the pot from the heat and use an electric whisk to carefully whisk the mixture for at least 5 minutes. Beating the mix gives it the characterful texture and allows it to set better too.

Once beaten, pour into the prepared, lined tin, scraping the sides of the pot to get every last drop.

Allow it to cool slightly, then score the top of the tablet into 1-inch squares before cooling thoroughly near an open window.

Once cool, break into pieces and store in an airtight tub. Don't tell your dentist!

NEIL'S RECIPES: CEPS ON TOAST

“To some this may be too simple, but every mushroom lover will adore this dish. The ceps, penny bun or porcini, can be foraged in many countryside locations in the UK. But always be careful what you pick. Make sure you know exactly what it is, get advice, and use a good identification book. If in doubt, discard.”

Serves 1

Prep time 10 minutes; cooking time: 7 minutes

INGREDIENTS

1 slice of good sourdough

100g ceps, lightly washed and sliced

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

A few fronds of tarragon, chopped

1 tablespoon of curly parsley, finely chopped

1.5 tablespoon of butter

1 tablespoon of cold-pressed rapeseed oil

25ml double cream

A knob of butter or bacon fat to fry the sourdough, optional

A few watercress leaves

A splash of Madeira, optional

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Heat the oil and a tablespoon of butter in a medium-sized frying pan and fry the chopped shallot. It will take a minute or two to soften - don’t colour the shallot. 

Add the garlic and cook for a further minute. 

Add the mushrooms to the pan along with the remaining butter. Cook for a couple of minutes - toss the contents in the pan if you can. 

Add the cream, herbs and seasoning. Taste and add a splash of madeira if you fancy. Continue to cook until the mushrooms are done and check the seasoning. 

Serve on a slice of sourdough, toasted on a chargrill or pan-fried in butter or bacon fat. Dress with a few watercress leaves and serve.