NEIL'S RECIPES: PLUM AND FRANGIPANE TART

“Many of you will have had this divine dish at the restaurant or from my farmers’ market stall. It’s relatively simple to make, and always serve it warm as it really comes alive. The jury is out about blind baking the pastry first. I like to, although it isn’t essential. But be careful you don’t get a soggy bottom — blind baking stops that from happening. Serve with your favourite cream, ice cream or crème fraîche.”

Serves 10
Prep time: 50 minutes; cooking time 1hour 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS

10-inch sweet pastry tart case, chilled and rested

Around 12-15 good plums

½ teaspoon mixed spice

½ teaspoon caster sugar

125g caster sugar

125g unsalted butter, softened

125g ground almonds

50g plain flour, sifted

3 whole eggs beaten

A handful of flaked almonds

200ml double cream

1 tablespoon icing sugar, sifted

1/3 vanilla pod, seeds scraped

Extra icing sugar for dusting

METHOD

Pre-heat oven to 200°C.

Halve and stone the plums then dust with mixed spice and sugar. Cook on a tray in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes. When the plums are cold, set to one side. Leave a few aside for serving.

Reduce oven to 150/160°C. 

Make the frangipane by creaming the butter and caster sugar until it’s nice and smooth. Then add the ground almonds and beaten eggs, mixing carefully. Then add the flour and combine. Spread one third in the prepared tart case and smooth over with a wet palette knife. Next, add half the plums reserved for the tart and spread them out. Top with another third of frangipane and smooth down. Then add the rest of the plums reserved for the tart and finish with the remaining frangipane. Smooth over well with a wet palette knife and top with the flaked almonds.

Place on a metal tray and bake for 1 to 1.5 hours. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. It will be easier to remove from the tart case when it’s just warm. It’s tricky to cut when it’s hot.

To make the crème Chantilly, whip the double cream to almost firm peak stage then add the sifted icing sugar to taste – roughly 1 tablespoon. Add the vanilla seeds and stir.

To serve, cut slices from the tart and plate with a dollop of cream and any extra plums. Dust with icing sugar and enjoy.

NEIL'S RECIPES: BLACK PUDDING ROSTI & FRIED EGG

“This is great as a starter and equally great as a main course. The flavour from the black pudding seeps into the potato and makes for a tasty, rich and wholesome dish with just the right amount of crispness. The egg is optional, but I love a fried egg. There are many types of black pudding to try, so pick the one you like best. Potato variety too — have fun and experiment.”

Serves 4

20 minutes prep, 45 minutes cooking

INGREDIENTS

4 slices of black pudding, I like Stornoway

4 medium sized potatoes, I suggest a Rooster or Maris Piper, peeled and washed

100g of butter, melted

A knob of butter

A few thyme leaves

100ml cold-pressed rapeseed oil

4 organic eggs

A bunch of watercress

Good salt and pepper

1 teaspoon of Arran mustard

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon fruit vinegar, apple or cider is nice

To make the dressing, add the honey, vinegar and mustard to a bowl and whisk together whilst trickling in 50ml of cold-pressed rapeseed oil.

METHOD 

To make the potato cake, grate the potatoes into a tea towel, then season with salt and pepper and add a few thyme leaves. Gather the corners of the tea towel and squeeze the water out of the grated spuds.

Add the remaining oil to a large frying pan (or you can use 4 small blini pans) and place on the hob. Place the grated potato in a bowl, add the melted butter and stir. Place half of this mix in the pan so it covers the entire base, then place the black pudding slices on top of the potato leaving a gap around the edges. Then cover with the remaining grated potato creating a sandwich.

Cook until the base turns golden brown then carefully flip the whole potato cake over to cook the other side.

Next, add a knob of butter to a clean frying pan and fry the eggs. Don’t let the pan get too hot. Baste the eggs with the butter and season with salt and pepper.

To serve, cut the potato cake into wedges and serve with an egg, a handful of watercress and a trickle of that lovely dressing.

NEIL'S RECIPES: TABLET

“I have been making tablet for decades as my gran used to make it. It is far too sweet for me as I crave more savoury foods as I get older. It is a great nibble to go with coffee, or to bag up and give away as gifts, perhaps at Christmas. Just remember to brush your teeth after eating!”

This should make plenty for a celebration, or for guests visiting

INGREDIENTS

120g unsalted butter

800ml whole milk

800g condensed milk or home-made milk jam

1.8kg unrefined caster sugar

METHOD

If you would like to make your own milk jam, start this recipe by mixing 800ml of milk and 800g of sugar in a pot, then boiling them together until a thick cream consistency is achieved. It can be flavoured with vanilla if you like.

Oil a large roasting tray with sides and lay on a sheet of silicone paper.

Melt the butter along with the condensed milk (or milk jam) and the milk on a medium heat in a large, thick-bottomed pot. Then dissolve in the sugar.

Bring it to the boil on a moderate heat and stir as often as you possibly can. Be careful as this gets very hot, so wear an apron and gloves if you need to.

After 10 minute or so you will see the colour changing to a light brown, this is a good thing. It must be kept on the boil, so use the thermostat on your appliance to keep a steady and quite vigorous boil.

After around half an hour the mixture will be quite caramel in colour and the texture in the pot will change. It will almost start to solidify on the edge of the pot.

Once it reaches around 114.5°C it should be fine to set.

When you think it’s ready, remove the pot from the heat and use an electric whisk to carefully whisk the mixture for at least 5 minutes. Beating the mix gives it the characterful texture and allows it to set better too.

Once beaten, pour into the prepared, lined tin, scraping the sides of the pot to get every last drop.

Allow it to cool slightly, then score the top of the tablet into 1-inch squares before cooling thoroughly near an open window.

Once cool, break into pieces and store in an airtight tub. Don't tell your dentist!

NEIL'S RECIPES: CEPS ON TOAST

“To some this may be too simple, but every mushroom lover will adore this dish. The ceps, penny bun or porcini, can be foraged in many countryside locations in the UK. But always be careful what you pick. Make sure you know exactly what it is, get advice, and use a good identification book. If in doubt, discard.”

Serves 1

Prep time 10 minutes; cooking time: 7 minutes

INGREDIENTS

1 slice of good sourdough

100g ceps, lightly washed and sliced

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

A few fronds of tarragon, chopped

1 tablespoon of curly parsley, finely chopped

1.5 tablespoon of butter

1 tablespoon of cold-pressed rapeseed oil

25ml double cream

A knob of butter or bacon fat to fry the sourdough, optional

A few watercress leaves

A splash of Madeira, optional

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Heat the oil and a tablespoon of butter in a medium-sized frying pan and fry the chopped shallot. It will take a minute or two to soften - don’t colour the shallot. 

Add the garlic and cook for a further minute. 

Add the mushrooms to the pan along with the remaining butter. Cook for a couple of minutes - toss the contents in the pan if you can. 

Add the cream, herbs and seasoning. Taste and add a splash of madeira if you fancy. Continue to cook until the mushrooms are done and check the seasoning. 

Serve on a slice of sourdough, toasted on a chargrill or pan-fried in butter or bacon fat. Dress with a few watercress leaves and serve.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CHERRY CLAFOUTIS

“I am very lucky that I have a small cherry tree in my garden, producing a few handfuls of the delicious stoned fruit every year. It’s a real treat to be able to eat a few straight from the branches. I’m a massive supporter of the UK cherry industry. Sadly, we are losing many old orchards due to cheap (and tasteless) foreign imports with no story, or local history, attached. So why don’t you plant a cherry tree in your garden and watch it grow! Clafoutis is simply a sweet batter (sometimes with almonds added) that entombs fruit (traditionally the cherry) – it’s just a lovely pudding. Some people leave the stones in their cherries, but I take them out so you can take a big mouthful without worrying about your teeth! Accompany with something creamy, all I ask is that you serve the clafoutis warm.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

2 eggs

80g plain flour

80g melted butter

60g caster sugar

150mls milk

2 handfuls of pitted British cherries, pitted

Icing sugar for dredging

A small knob of butter for greasing

Vanilla ice cream, crème fraîche or clotted cream to serve (optional)

METHOD

Pre-heat oven to 185°C.

Start by greasing 1 large or 4 small oven-proof dishes with butter.

Then make a batter by combining the egg, flour, melted butter, caster sugar and milk in a bowl. Allow this to rest for 5 minutes.

Divide the pitted cherries between each dish and cover with the batter onto the fruit and bake in the oven for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden and risen. It may soufflé up a little and fall when it gets to the table – that’s fine!

To serve, dredge with icing sugar, and serve with something creamy and rich.

NEIL'S RECIPES: BEEF CHEEKS WITH TONGUE, BACON AND CHANTERELLES

“A great use of parts of the animal that sometimes get overlooked. Cheek and tongue have huge flavour and texture. I love them both, and here they are mixed with bacon and delicious mushrooms, making a hearty dish, served with buttery mash and greens. Rich but very tasty.”

Serves 3 to 4

INGREDIENTS

1 large beef/ox cheek

200g piece ox tongue, brined then braised in beef stock, chilled and diced into 1cm cubes

1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1 stick celery, thinly sliced

1 bay leaf

A few sprigs of thyme

1 large glass of good red wine

1 clove garlic

1 star anise

A handful cleaned chanterelles

100g small bacon lardons

750ml good beef stock

12 small button onions or small shallots, cooked in stock for 20 minutes

1 teaspoon roughly-chopped curly parsley

2 tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil

A knob of butter

Good salt and pepper

Buttered greens

Mash to serve, optional

METHOD

Place the beef cheek in a plastic tub and add the wine, carrot, onion, celery, bay leaf, garlic, star anise and thyme. Give it a good mix, cover and marinade overnight in the fridge.

The next day, remove the cheek from the marinade and pat dry on kitchen paper. Reserve the wine and veg.

Pre-heat oven to 150°C.

Heat half the oil in a thick-bottomed pan. Season the beef with salt and pepper, then sear until well browned all over on a high heat for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the beef from the pan and add the marinated veg to the pan to fry until golden brown - about another 5 minutes. A good golden colour is important here. Then add the wine and bring to the boil. Reduce for 5 minutes then add the beef stock and bring to the boil again. Simmer for 5 minutes before returning the beef cheek to the pan. Cover with a lid and braise in the oven for 3 to 4 hours.

When the beef is ready it will be quite fragile and soft so leave it in the pan out of the oven for an hour. Carefully remove the beef from the pan and roll it in cling film to keep it moist. Refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours.

Meanwhile, pass the stock through a fine sieve and discard the vegetables. Reduce for 5 to 10 minutes until it’s nice and sticky.

Remove the beef cheek from the cling film and cut into 3 or 4 pieces and place into the pan with the reduced stock and gently reheat. Leave it to warm up for 20 to 25 minutes, gently turning each piece now and again.

Next, heat the remaining oil frying pan on a high heat and add the bacon lardons and tongue. Fry for 3 to 5 minutes stirring and tossing as you go. Add some thyme and the onions and season. Then add the chanterelles and the parsley, followed by a knob of butter and toss again.  

Whilst this is frying, prepare some buttered greens of your choice.

To serve, arrange the buttered greens in the centre of the plate and top with the beef cheek. Garnish with the mushrooms, bacon, tongue and onions. Serve with a big bowl of buttery mash.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CREAM, OATS, RASPBERRIES AND HONEY

“We all know this pudding as Cranachan, a favourite 70’s dinner party classic. It’s very rich and extremely tasty. The more berries you add, the better it tastes!. For a richer whisky flavour, soak the oats in a wee drop of whisky overnight.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS 

750ml double cream

4 tablespoons runny honey

A handful of pinhead oats

A splash of whisky

A handful of raspberries

Mint leaves to garnish

METHOD

Whip the cream carefully to ribbon stage and chill for a while. Be careful not to over-whip the cream or it will turn into butter.

Meanwhile, toast the oats on metal tray under a grill, then allow to cool.

Add a splash of whisky to the raspberries and leave to macerate for 10 minutes.

Remove the cream from the fridge and add the honey, retaining a little for garnish. Then fold the oats and boozy berries into the cream.

To serve, either spoon into a glass and decorate with a drizzle of honey, or place in one large serving bowl and leave in the fridge for an hour or two until your guests arrive. Garnish with a few mint leaves if you like.

NEIL'S RECIPES: MACKEREL FILLET WITH GOOSEBERRY & APPLE CHUTNEY

“Mackerel has a wonderful flavour. It’s relatively easy to prepare but must be absolutely fresh, and here the sharp fruit chutney cuts through the rich, oily fish so well. I adore gooseberries—they go beautifully with oily fish, as well as in a sweet crumble or fool.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

4 fillets of fresh mackerel, boned and filleted, try doing it yourself or get a fishmonger to help

250g gooseberries

1 Bramley apple

1/2 onion, peeled and finely chopped

100ml cider vinegar

75g unrefined sugar

A few spices like a star anise and a clove or two

1 tablespoon of cold-pressed rapeseed oil for frying

A squeeze of lemon juice

Good salt and pepper

Edible flowers and wild wood sorrel (optional)

METHOD

Begin by peeling and coring the apple. Cut it into a medium dice and add to a pot along with half the gooseberries, the onion, vinegar, spices and sugar then bring to the boil. This should only take about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to a simmer and, keeping an eye on the pot, let it cook gently for about an hour until the ingredients almost resemble a purée.

Then add the remaining gooseberries, season with salt and pepper, and continue to cook on a low heat for a further 20 minutes until all the ingredients are cooked and it looks like a light-coloured chutney. This will keep well in a sterilised jar in your fridge or cupboard. You can play around with different fruits and spices next time you make some.

To cook the mackerel, place a non-stick frying pan on a moderately hot heat on the hob, and add the cold-pressed rapeseed oil. Season the fillets with salt and pepper and make sure the fish is dry. When the oil is hot, gently add the fish to the pan, skin side down, and cook carefully. If it seems to hot, turn the heat down. Cook on the skin side for 2 to 3 minutes until it’s a lovely golden colour then carefully flip the fish over using a palette knife or fish slice and cook until the fish is warmed through. Check the seasoning and add a splash of lemon juice.

Serve at once with the chutney (cold or warm) and garnish with wood sorrel and a few edible flowers.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CHERRY FRANGIPANE TART

“My tree at home produced a good crop this year, and so we made this recipe. It is so good—not too sweet, but just right. The cherry flavour really comes through when cooked. Be careful not to overcook the tart as it can dry out. This goes beautifully with crème fraîche, a scoop of ice cream, or even clotted cream.”

Serves 6

45 minutes prep, 1 hour cooking

INGREDIENTS

For the pastry:

120g butter, unsalted

60g icing sugar

220g plain flour

1 egg, beaten

Extra flour for sifting

For the frangipane:

150g butter

150g caster sugar

150g ground almonds

50g plain flour

2 eggs, beaten

A pinch of salt

A splash of cherry brandy or kirsch, optional

A tablespoon of flaked almonds

250g washed, and stoned cherries

Crème fraîche or clotted cream to serve

METHOD

To make the pastry, rub together the sugar and butter until creamed. Then add the egg a little at a time and then fold in the flour a little at a time too. It will seem a tad wet but will harden once chilled. Wrap the pastry in cling film and store in the fridge for 20 minutes. Once chilled, remove from the fridge and roll the pastry on a floured surface until 3mm thick.

Line a well-greased and floured bottomless 12'' tin with the pastry. Remove the overhanging edges and leave to rest again whilst you make your frangipane.

Heat the oven to 165°C.

To make the frangipane, beat together the butter and sugar until pale. Add the almonds gently and then the flour. Slowly incorporate the eggs, then add the salt and the liquor and mix well.

Pour a third of the frangipane mix into the pastry-lined tart case. Then add the cherries to the remaining mix and add this to the tart case. Smooth over with a wet palette knife and sprinkle over a few slithers of flaked almonds and bake for 45 minutes then check and bake for a further 15 minutes if required. Your knife should enter easily and exit clean with only cherry juice on it.

Allow to cool slightly then remove from the tin and serve warm with dollops of crème fraîche or thick clotted cream.

NEIL'S RECIPES: LOIN OF VENISON WITH GREENS AND BARLEY

“The flavours of a roasted piece of venison—even in summer—are delicious. The trickle of meat juices and the barley go so well here, and a kick of wild garlic, if you have it, is very welcome. A few leaves make it a lovely dish.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

450g piece of loin of venison, red deer or roe deer

200g of pearl barley, washed in a sieve

1 Savoy cabbage, or equivalent of spring greens

3 nobs of butter

A few hard herbs, like thyme

Good salt and pepper

A trickle of cold-pressed rapeseed oil

METHOD

Drain the barley and place in a pot. Cover with water, season with salt and bring to the boil. Simmer for 30 minutes, or until just soft. Drain and add a nob of butter on top. Keep in a warm place.

Meanwhile, heat a frying pan and season the venison with salt and pepper. Fry in a trickle of rapeseed oil with a wee nob of butter and some thyme. Baste as you go, cooking for 5 to 10 minutes until golden brown all over. The longer you cook it for, the more well done it will be.

Allow the venison to rest before carving. At least 5 minutes, then give it a flash under a grill to heat up again.

Cut the cabbage into strips and wilt down in a pot with a nob of butter and salt and pepper. I like it quite crunchy.

To serve, carve the venison and arrange on a plate. Sprinkle the barley and drape the cabbage over and around the meat. Delicious and simple.