I have long been fascinated by this book. I can’t quite recall when I first stumbled upon John Tovey and The Miller Howe Cookbook, but it has been a place I have admired for many years. It was well respected and almost shrouded in mystery for some reason. Since opening its doors on the banks of Lake Windermere in 1971, it has always had a name for quality, professionalism, and good things.

I am sure it is now a private home, but mid- to late-1980s onwards, this was on the list of places that I sent my CV and cover letter to work at. It was opulent and elegant, had stunning views across the lake to the hills of the Lake District. And the food, well, this was why folk went. John Tovey was a well-known cook, if self-taught, but knew what he was doing. What came out of the kitchen was revolutionary in a backwater like The Lakes. This was London food served in a country house and was frequented by stars and journalists.

On a visit to the lakes a few years ago, I drove past it, and it felt good to see that the brass plaque was still there. This book is good, with lots of basic recipes to follow, but some more elaborate dishes to try too. It is a blast from my past, and such fun to flick through. No tweezers in sight, no 4-page recipes to try to follow, just simple and elegant cooking. I would devour the baby poussin in dark ale or the Barnsley chop, and the fillet of beef cooked in consommé, a dish I recall making years ago. Some of you may have this book, if you do, get it off the bookshelf and go through it again. I bet something will jump out at you.