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Cafe St Honore

July 2, 2025

Neil's cookbook of the week: Steak by Tim Hayward

by Cafe St Honoré


‘Steak, The Whole Story’ by Tim Hayward is a great book. It contains a huge amount of knowledge and has everything you need to know about meat and beefy goodness: how to buy it, where to buy it, store it, butcher it, season it, cook it, rest it and carve. Then the important part—how to eat it and what with.

I really like Tim, and his writing has always fascinated me. He even reviewed us years ago, for the Financial Times I think it was. With a vast encyclopaedic knowledge of all things food, Tim delves right into the subject. He acknowledges that he learns himself from the process, and what I adore is always the simplicity he craves.

This is bold and brash. A book for meat lovers, steak lovers, full-blown carnivores. A book for people who dream of that fatty bit in the middle of a rib-eye steak, who save the last chip to mop up the juices on the plate, who are quite honestly one step away from being a vampire—and folks, I am one of these people.

There are great recipes here and techniques, but I really like how this book is laid out. It is easy to follow and fun too. There are pros and cons for every steak, and everyone has their favourite. Me? Depends on my mood, I suppose.

There is a time and place for every steak, but the thinking man’s steak—the rump—is good, full of flavour, you have to work at it. Fillet is rather posh, very tender. Sirloin is a real favourite in our house, as is the mighty rib-eye, but a flat iron has a delicious, almost gamey or offal-like feel about it.

To be fair, there is too much choice. I love them all—and with watercress, chips (beef dripping ones), and béarnaise please, if you are offering.

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Cafe St Honoré, 34 North West Thistle Street Lane, Edinburgh EH2 1EA

Tel: 0131 226 2211

Email: eat@cafesthonore.com