NEIL'S RECIPES: WARM CHOCOLATE FONDANT WITH WALNUT BRITTLE

“We sell so many fondants at Cafe St Honoré that we see them in our sleep. We can’t take them off the menu as they are so popular. We serve with a different ice-cream or crème fraîche, but you chose what you serve with it.”

Makes 2 large or 4 small fondants

INGREDIENTS

2 eggs

2 egg yolks

1 tablespoon of plain flour

100g dark chocolate, plus a few extra buttons for the centre

100g unsalted butter, diced

65g caster sugar

A little melted butter for brushing

A little cocoa powder for dusting

A dollop of vanilla ice-cream

A handful of Californian walnuts

Another 45g caster sugar

Heat the oven to 180°C.

METHOD

To make the brittle, add 45 grams of caster sugar to a pot, place on the hob and cook until the sugar is golden brown. Be careful as it gets very hot. When golden, pour the sugar on to a non-stick mat and add the walnuts to it. Allow to cool and snap into shards of desired sizes. 

Next, prepare 2 large, or 4 small, dariole moulds by brushing with the melted butter then dust with a little cocoa powder. Knocking any excess powder out.

Whisk the egg, yolks and flour in a bowl and set to one side.

Place the chocolate, butter and sugar in a bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt gently whilst whisking to combine. When it reaches room temperature, add the egg and flour mix to the chocolate mix. This is a basic fondant recipe.

Next, spoon the mixture into the moulds until they are half full, then add the buttons, then fill the moulds to the top. If there’s any mix left over, it will keep well in the fridge for another day.

Bake the fondants in the oven for 9 to 11 minutes, and then let them sit for a minute outside the oven before carefully turning them out onto warm plates. Serve with a dollop of vanilla ice-cream a shard of walnut brittle.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CLAMS WITH BACON AND THYME

“I adore shellfish of all types, and these sweet clams are utterly delicious and with bacon and thyme, and make for a very quick and easy starter. Ensure you run the clams under cold running water for a good while to release any grit or sand. Barra cockles are delicious too.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

4 handfuls of clams, either palourdes or surf

1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped

A few sprigs of thyme

2 rashers of bacon, chopped into little lardons or strips

A tablespoon of organic extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of half a lemon

Good salt and pepper

A tablespoon of curly parsley, chopped

METHOD

Rinse the clams thoroughly to remove any grit.

Place a large pot on the hob and turn the heat up high. Add half the olive oil and the bacon. Fry until golden.

Add the clams and garlic to the pot and cover with a lid. Move them around continuously as you cook until all the shells open. Then add the thyme, lemon juice, parsley and season with salt and pepper.

After a few minutes with the heat still on high, the clams should all be open. Now add the remainder olive oil and stir.

Serve in warmed bowls with good bread to mop up all the juice.

NEIL'S RECIPES: RHUBARB ETON MESS

“Rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb! Its lovely, and one thing I grow well over winter, hence why I use it a lot in my recipes. This rich and creamy pudding is just as delicious as the berry version, and with only three ingredients, what's not to like. But I do like to add a few sprigs of sweet cicely sprinkled on top, to give it a lovely aniseed flavour. Try serving it in a big bowl in the centre of your table. There will be oohs and aahs all round when you set it down.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

300g of garden rhubarb, cut into 1-inch cubes

500ml double cream, semi-whipped to ribbon stage

2 egg whites

6 tablespoons caster sugar

A few sprigs of sweet cicely

METHOD

Heat oven to 100°C

To make the meringue, whisk the egg whites in a clean bowl or mixer until almost stiff then slowly whisk in 2 tablespoons of sugar. Spoon this mixture onto parchment paper and cook for 4 to 5 hours in the oven. Once cool, lightly break into pieces.

In a thick-bottomed pot, add the rhubarb, the remaining 4 tablespoons of sugar, and a trickle of water. Cook on a low heat for 5 minutes, then increase the temperature to a moderate heat and cook until the rhubarb is soft (not mushy), retaining its shape. This will take about a further 10 minutes. Allow to cool, retaining any syrup from the fruit.

Before plating, mix the semi-whipped cream, the meringue (retain some for a topping) and the rhubarb in a chilled bowl. Then divide this mix between four serving bowls and top with the extra meringue, a few sprigs of sweet cicely and a drizzle of syrup from the rhubarb pot.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CONFIT DUCK LEG WITH CROWDIE, BEETROOT AND LEAVES

“Start the prep a day before as it needs a bit of time to get right. If, like in France, we sold confit legs in the butchers then life would be a little easier. And any nice salad leaves will do, washed with a little dressing on them.”

Serves 4
Prep time - 30 minutes and overnight; cooking time - 4 hours

INGREDIENTS

4 free-range duck legs, try sourcing from a farmers’ market
150g course sea salt
50g dark brown sugar
2 to 3 star anise
2 to 3 sprigs of thyme
1/2 a head of garlic, smashed with the side of a knife
1 litre duck fat
4 peppercorns
2 bay leaves
4 tablespoons of crowdie cheese
1 red beetroot, boiled for 3 hours and peeled
1 candy beetroot, boiled for 3 hours and peeled
1/2 a red onion
2 handfuls of a mixed salad leaves, like rocket and watercress
A drizzle of good extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon of grain mustard
1 tablespoon of cider vinegar
1 teaspoon of honey
Good salt and pepper to taste

METHOD

Place the duck legs in a plastic tub and rub the salt and sugar all over so it coats them entirely. Then add the bay, some thyme, garlic, peppercorns, star anise to the tub and cover with cling film or a lid and leave in the fridge for 6 to 8 hours to cure and season.

Remove the legs from the cure and rinse carefully under the cold tap to remove all the salt and sugar. Pat dry on a tea towel. Retain the garlic.

Heat the oven to 140°C.

Heat the duck fat on the hob, either in a pot or an oven-proof tray big enough to take the legs and fat together. Once hot, submerge the legs in the fat then add the bay leaves, some thyme and a few garlic cloves retained from the curing. Immediately transfer the pot or tray to the oven and cook for 3 to 4 hours until the legs are cooked and the meat is almost falling off the bone.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool before removing the legs from the fat. Once cooled, place the legs under a hot grill for 4 to 5 minutes until the skin is crisp and golden.

Prepare the salad by dicing the cooked beetroot and slicing the onion thinly. Make a dressing by mixing the vinegar, honey, mustard, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Season and mix well.

To serve, place the duck into the centre of a plate and arrange the salad leaves, beetroot and onion with a few dollops of crowdie cheese around the edge of the plate. Then drizzle with the dressing to finish.

NEIL'S RECIPES: VANILLA RICE PUDDING WITH NEW SEASON FORCED YORKSHIRE RHUBARB

"An old favourite of mine. Rich, velvety rice pudding works brilliantly with the slight sharpness of new season forced rhubarb. Grown in dark sheds in the ‘rhubarb triangle’ of Yorkshire it’s harvested by candlelight. Some say you can hear the rhubarb crowns creaking and growing as they force their way through the crowns. Be careful to not overcook it though. I like to add a hint of citrus zest and a wee kick of vanilla."  

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

100g pudding rice

75g caster sugar

1 vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out

500mls whole milk, I use organic

400g Yorkshire rhubarb

Zest of half a lemon

Zest of half an orange

A liberal sprinkling of sugar

A splash of cream

A knob of butter

METHOD

Heat oven to 180°C.

Place the milk in a thick-bottomed pot on the hob. Add the rice and sugar and stir until the sugar dissolves. Then add the vanilla seeds. Keep the pod for the rhubarb.

Bring this mixture to just below the boil, stirring every minute or so. Be careful not to burn the milk or to let the rice stick to the bottom of the pan. It will take around 20 minutes for the rice to soften. Add a touch of cream and butter to enrich the pudding if you like.

Meanwhile, top and tail the rhubarb and give it a good wash. Cut it into roughly 1-inch pieces and place on a baking tray with sides. Add the citrus zests, the vanilla pod and a liberal sprinkling of sugar. Place in the oven until the rhubarb is soft and the sugar has created a wonderful syrup. Allow to cool slightly.

To serve, divide the pudding between four warmed bowls and top with the rhubarb.

NEIL'S RECIPES: OYSTERS WITH WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE AND TABASCO

“This takes me back to working in Australia many years ago—it really works and is utterly delicious. That said, nothing beats a glass of champagne and freshly-shucked oysters au naturel.”

Serves 4
Prep time 20 minutes, cooking time 10 minutes

INGREDIENTS

Allow 3 to 6 oysters per person as a starter, 12 for a main course
150g piece of good air-dried bacon, cut into very small lardons
2 tablespoons of cold-pressed rapeseed oil
3 to 4 tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce
2 to 3 teaspoons of Tabasco sauce
A twist of pepper
Course salt to rest the shells on

METHOD

Have a go at shucking the oysters yourself. Go online and watch a tutorial, or ask your fishmonger to do it for you. Retain each oyster in half the shell.

Next, add the oil to a solid frying pan and bring to a moderate heat. Add the bacon and fry until just starting to crisp up, keeping it moving all the time. It’ll take 5 minutes or so.

Whilst the bacon cooks, turn the grill on full heat. Top each oyster with bacon and place in an oven-proof dish. To make the sauce, combine the Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco and drizzle over each oyster and place under the hot grill for 3 to 5 minutes until the bacon is crisp and the oysters are just cooked.

Serve at once on plates of course salt alongside a big salad and bread.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CHOCOLATE TART

“Lovers of rich chocolate will adore this, although I can only manage a small slice. Of course, it all depends on the ingredients you use. I’m using Montezuma’s organic dark chocolate just now, and adore it. The trick to this dish is to trust your oven and serve the tart on the day you make it. It’s just not the same the day after!”

Makes on 9-inch tart – but small, individual tarts work very well too

INGREDIENTS

9-inch pastry case, lined

275ml double cream

200ml whole milk

400g dark chocolate, I use Montezuma’s

3 whole eggs

Cocoa powder for dredging (optional)

For the pastry (this will give you some for your freezer for next time):

600g plain flour, sifted

185g icing sugar, sifted

215g unsalted butter, diced

3 eggs, cracked and gently whisked

METHOD

Cream the icing sugar and butter together for a few minutes until light in colour. Add the flour and scrape down the sides of the bowl before adding the eggs - a little at a time - to make a soft, wet paste. Chill for 20 minutes then roll out and line your pastry case and allow it to rest for a further 20 minutes in the fridge.

Remove from the fridge and cover the pastry with greaseproof paper or a triple-layer of cling film, add baking beans and bake at 180°C for 35 to 40 minutes, until just golden and crisp. Remove the baking beans and greaseproof paper.

Meanwhile, warm the cream and the milk together in a pan until it nearly comes to a boil. Then remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Mix well with a whisk, and then allow it to cool gently for 5 minutes or so.

Add the eggs to this mixture one at a time, stirring gently as you do. Then pour this mixture into the blind-baked tart shell and bake for 20 to 30 minutes until there is no wobble when you gently shake the tray.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly before removing carefully from the tin. Dust with cocoa powder (optional). Cut into slices and serve with crème fraîche.

A top tip is to use a sharp, hot, wet knife to cut the tart into perfect slices.

NEIL'S RECIPES: VENISON STEW AND DUMPLINGS

“This is a regular dish at home, and those dumplings are just exquisite. You can substitute beef if you prefer, but it’s the kick of cinnamon that lifts the stew and gives it a festive touch.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

500g diced shoulder of venison, beef or lamb would be as good

2 local carrots, washed, peeled and diced

2 medium-sized onions, peeled and roughly chopped

1 wedge of turnip, peeled and diced

500ml really well reduced. good beef stock

200ml leftover gravy or sauce

½ a cinnamon stick, optional but a hint of spice in winter adds something special

1 glass of red wine

1 sprig of thyme

1 bay leaf

Good salt and pepper

100g self-raising flour

50g proper beef suet, minced, packet suet would do

Herbs e.g. chives; horseradish, mustard, optional flavourings for the dough balls

Extra flour for dusting

1 tablespoon cold-pressed rapeseed oil for frying

METHOD

Add the oil to a hot casserole dish and fry the diced venison until golden brown. It will take a few minutes on high heat. Season with salt and pepper and add the diced carrot, turnip, onions and the cinnamon if you’re using some and fry for a further 5 minutes until you achieve a good colour.

Still on a high heat, add the wine and reduce slightly. Then add the thyme, bay leaf, gravy and stock. Season again and bring to a simmer.

Place in a hot oven (180°C) without a lid for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Then turn down the heat to 150°C and cook for a further 2 hours, stirring every 20 minutes or so to ensure the stew doesn't dry out.

Meanwhile, make the dumplings by adding the flour to a bowl and stirring in the minced suet and salt, then combining with cold water until you have a rough dough. Don't overwork the dough. You can add any flavourings you like such as chopped chives, horseradish or mustard.

Divide the dough into 4 balls - you may need extra flour for rolling as it can get quite sticky - and plop them into the stew pot after the first 3 hours is up and place the lid on. Turn the heat up to 180°C again and cook for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and serve at the table in the dish it’s cooked in.

NEILS RECIPES: CARAMEL TART WITH CRÉME FRAÎCHE

“This tart looks very simple, but it’s a little bit tricky to make. I’m using blind-baked sweet pastry with whisky, rum or madeira added to the caramel. Gentle cooking is required, not too hot an oven, and remember to let it cool before cutting. Lovely with that kick of salt through the mix.”

Serves 10

INGREDIENTS

1 pre-cooked blind-baked 12-inch pastry shell

280g caster sugar

50ml Madeira, or whatever alcohol you prefer

1 litre double cream

Pinch of good sea salt, optional

70g light brown sugar

9 egg yolks

A few dollops of good crème fraîche

METHOD

Heat oven to 145°C.

In a good pot on a medium heat on the stove, heat the caster sugar to a golden-brown caramel. Do not leave it.

Carefully add the alcohol, then the cream. It will look a bit strange but bring it back to a temperature that will melt the caramelised sugar. Allow to cool slightly.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the light brown sugar and egg yolks. Add the slightly cooled cream and caramel mix, whisking immediately. Add the salt, stir, sieve into a clean pot or jug, then pour into the tart case.

Bake for 35 to 55 minutes, checking all the time. When there is a nice wobble on the tart, it’s ready. Remove from oven, chill and serve with a dollop of good crème fraîche.

NEIL'S RECIPES: ARBROATH SMOKIE AND TOASTED OAT SALAD

“Arbroath smokies can be a bit tricky to find, but good fishmongers usually stock them, and you might spot them at markets or even online. I’ve even seen them for sale in Harrods. They’re fantastic flaked into soups and risotto, kedgeree, or Cullen skink.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

2 Arbroath smokies

4 dollops of crème fraîche

2 tablespoons pinhead oats, lightly toasted

4 small handfuls of washed salad leaves, I like a good mix from Phantassie Organic, but rocket is just as good

A squeeze of half a lemon

Good salt and pepper

2 radishes, very thinly sliced

A wee trickle of cold-pressed rapeseed oil

METHOD

Heat the oven to 150°C. Place the smokies on an ovenproof tray and warm them for around 15 to 20 minutes. Then allow them to cool slightly before peeling the skin off and removing the bones. Keep to one side.

In a large mixing bowl, mix the salad leaves, oats (save a few for a garnish) and crème fraîche. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice before adding the flaked smokies to the bowl.

Give it a good mix and add a drizzle of cold-pressed rapeseed oil. Have a taste, it may need some more seasoning.

To plate up, distribute the salad between 4 plates and scatter the radishes on top. Then add a few more toasted oats. Delicious.