NEIL'S RECIPES: CRÈME BRÛLÉE

“Rich and decadent, this classic pudding is big seller at Cafe St Honoré, and rightly so. The heady vanilla works so well with the cream (I use cream from Graham’s Dairy as it has perfect fat content), and the slightly bitter caramelised sugar cuts through the sweetness.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

400ml double cream

1 vanilla pod, split length ways and seeds scraped

5 large egg yolks

50g unrefined caster sugar, plus extra for glazing

METHOD

Firstly, heat the cream with the vanilla until it just boils, then leave for a few minutes to infuse on a low heat. Meanwhile, combine the sugar with the egg yolk and whisk vigorously until it’s pale and creamy.

Next, pour the hot cream onto the egg yolk mix and whisk quickly to combine. Pour this mixture into a clean pan and heat to 86°C, stirring all the time.

Blitz with a hand-held blender to bring the fats together and to ensure it doesn’t split. Then pour into ramekins and chill for 3 to 4 hours, or overnight.

Once chilled, sprinkle a teaspoon of sugar onto each brûlée and glaze with a moderate blowtorch (or under the grill) until the tops are golden brown but not too dark or bitter.

Serve at once with some shortbread. Enjoy!

Get my shortbread recipe here.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CLAMS WITH BACON AND THYME

"I’m using palourdes clams for this recipe. They have a nice sweet taste and are quite meaty. In countries like Portugal and Spain these sweet beauties are highly sought after but are often overlooked here. They’re lovely in a chowder, or a soup as well, but I urge you to try them as a plate to share before a main course. They’re so simple, and so tasty."

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

4 handfuls of clams, either palourdes or surf

1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped

A few sprigs of thyme

2 rashers of bacon, chopped into little lardons or strips

A tablespoon of organic extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of half a lemon

Good salt and pepper

A tablespoon of curly parsley, chopped

METHOD

Rinse the clams thoroughly to remove any grit.

Place a large pot on the hob and turn the heat up high. Add half the olive oil and the bacon. Fry until golden.

Add the clams and garlic to the pot and cover with a lid. Move them around continuously as you cook until all the shells open. Then add the thyme, lemon juice, parsley and season with salt and pepper.

After a few minutes with the heat still on high, the clams should all be open. Now add the remainder olive oil and stir.

Serve in warmed bowls with good bread to mop up all the juice.

NEIL'S RECIPES: LOBSTER, CHORIZO & POTATO SALAD

“It is rare for me to use lobster because of the price. I enjoy making lobster ravioli and mousse, but a warm salad is a delicious way of getting the meaty flesh to work with something tasty. Chorizo marries well with lobster and adding heritage potatoes to the dish it makes it go a bit further. This can be served as a starter or a main course but keep it simple.”

Serves 4
Prep time: 45 minutes; cooking time: 35 minutes

INGREDIENTS

1 Scottish lobster

4 to 5 new season, heritage potatoes like a Sharpe’s Express or a Jersey Royal

Half a Peelham farm organic chorizo, peeled and diced into 1-cm cubes

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

A handful of watercress

2 tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil 

A knob of butter

Good salt and pepper

Juice from half a lemon

METHOD 

To kill the lobster, pierce its head with the tip of your knife, then place it in simmering, salted water for 12 minutes to cook. Remove from the water and allow to cool in cold water.

Cook the potatoes in their skins until just soft, allow to cool, then slice.
Once cooled, carefully remove the meat from the tail of the lobster by laying it on its side, pushing downwards and holding the tail upright to peel away the 2 sides of the tail to remove the meat. It may have a tinge of green on it, that’s absolutely fine, it will turn red during the next stage of cooking.

Next, crack the claws open and remove them carefully. Keep the shells in the freezer to make a bisque another day.

Slice the lobster meat into small pieces.

Add the rapeseed oil to a good pan and bring to a moderate heat before adding the sliced potatoes. Don’t cook them too harshly. Season with salt and pepper and turn the heat down. Cook for 2 minutes on each side then add the lobster meat, chorizo, butter, lemon juice and parsley. Stir and checking the seasoning one last time.

Spoon the ingredients onto 4 warmed plates and decorate with a few sprigs of watercress for that peppery hit.

NEIL'S RECIPES: LEMON VERBENA POSSET WITH GINGER BISCUITS

“An unusual flavour, verbena is a beautiful plant I saw growing at the Secret Herb Garden outside Edinburgh. It makes the most delicious custard pots, possets or ice creams but it is powerful stuff, so be cautious and use just a few leaves. It’s not difficult to grow, so I may try it out on my new patio area for a taste of the Mediterranean.”

Makes 6 glasses

INGREDIENTS

450ml double cream

170g caster sugar

A handful of lemon verbena leaves

A few raspberries

3 pieces of stem ginger, finely diced

2 tbspn ground ginger

150g plain flour

100g butter

METHOD

Bring the cream and 120g of the sugar to the boil for 3 minutes, being careful to not let it boil over.

Remove from the heat and add the lemon verbena leaves. Let them infuse for 10 minutes before passing through a fine sieve into glasses. Chill overnight.

To make the biscuits, combine the butter, flour, ground and stem ginger then mix in the remaining sugar to make a smooth paste. Roll into a sausage shape, wrap in cling film and refrigerate for an hour or two.

Once chilled, cut the biscuit mix into thin slices and bake in a 135°C oven on greaseproof paper until just golden, roughly 30 minutes. Scatter on a little sugar as they leave the oven.

To serve, garnish each posset glass with a few raspberries and serve with the warm, fresh biscuits. Heaven.

NEIL'S RECIPES: LAMB LOIN WITH BARLEY AND KALE

“Easter and spring are the time of year to appreciate wonderful British lamb. Use a rare breed if you can find some, and perhaps buy a half carcass and share with a friend. Directly bought from a farm or good butcher, it is much cheaper, and freezes well. Here I have married it with barley. I adore the plump texture of cooked barley, and you can add anything you like. I have used kale and carrots, but chard, spinach or any root veg works well. Whatever is in season, or that you have in the fridge.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 saddle of Scotch Lamb, bones and outer fat removed, rolled and tied

150g barley, rinsed under the tap

1 handful of curly kale, stalks removed

50g butter, diced

75g Anster cheese, grated

Curly parsley, chopped

Good salt and pepper

1 tablespoon cold-pressed rapeseed oil

A few thyme sprigs

1 clove of garlic, smashed

METHOD

Heat the oven to 190°C

Place the rinsed barley in a pot, season with salt and cover with 750ml of water. Bring to the boil and simmer on a low heat for about 30 to 40 minutes. Drain and keep in a warm place.

Season the lamb. Heat the oil in a frying pan until just starting to smoke, then add the lamb, rolling it in the pan to ensure it browns evenly - this should take 4 to 5 minutes. Keep an eye on the temperature of the pan and turn the heat down if it gets too hot.

Once browned all over, add the smashed garlic and thyme to the pan, and place it in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes. Make sure there’s still a bit of give when you prod the meat. Remove the lamb from the pan, season it and allow it to rest somewhere warm.

Next, blanch the kale in salted boiling water for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the pot and chop. Then place in a clean pot with the barley and butter, and beat like a risotto. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle in the cheese and the parsley and combine. Taste to see if it needs more seasoning, butter, cheese or parsley.

To serve, flash heat the lamb in a hot oven or under the grill before carving. Arrange slices on warmed plates alongside a spoonful or two of the barley.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CHILLED RHUBARB CUSTARD CRUMBLE

“For us chefs and cooks who rely on seasonality, it's a joy to see the vibrant pink stalks at the markets after a winter of apples and stored pears. You might not know that rhubarb is actually a vegetable, which was first grown in the UK in the 18th Century at Edinburgh's Botanic Gardens.”

Makes 4 portions 

INGREDIENTS

Crumble

125g unsalted soft butter

65g caster sugar

150g plain flour

40g corn flour

1. Cream the butter and sugar together until pale and creamy.

2. Sift the flour and corn flour into the mix, combine until a dough forms.

3. Tear the dough into small pieces and arrange evenly on a greaseproof-paper-lined tray.

4. Cook at 150°c until golden (about 40 minutes), breaking up with a fork during cooking.

5. Allow to cool.

Rhubarb

250g new-season forced Yorkshire rhubarb, cut into roughly 4-inch batons

150g caster sugar

Zest of 1 lemon

1 vanilla pod, slit and seeds scraped out

1. Lay the rhubarb onto an oven tray or dish. Sprinkle over the caster sugar, lemon zest and smear on the seeds of vanilla - they can be a bit sticky.

2. Cook in a moderate oven (about 180°c) for 15 to 20 minutes until just soft. Be aware that it can overcook and turn to mush quickly.

3. Allow to cool.

Custard

1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped

9 egg yolks

70g caster sugar

600ml double cream 

1. Bring the cream and vanilla to the boil in a thick-bottomed pan. Then turn off the heat and let it sit for 5 minutes to allowing the cream to take on the flavour of vanilla.

2. Meanwhile whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until pale.

3. Pour the cooled cream mixture into the egg mixture, stirring all the time. Return to a clean pan and place on a medium heat stirring continuously with a whisk or a wooden spoon. Continue until it reaches 86°c. This will ensure the eggs cook and it thickens.

4. Strain through a fine sieve.

5. Allow to cool.

To assemble

In your serving glasses or bowls, layer the custard and rhubarb. Top with the crumble mix and a couple of pieces of rhubarb.

NEIL'S RECIPES: DUCK RILLETTE

“I love this classic French dish. Made with lots of seasoning and a splash or two of Armagnac, it can be stunning. Packed into a dish and covered with a layer of duck fat this will keep for weeks. Serve with toast and chutney or pickles.”

Makes enough to fill a kilner jar

INGREDIENTS

2 duck legs

A large handful of course sea salt

1 tablespoon of dark brown muscovado sugar

2 star anise

2 cloves garlic, smashed

1 sprig thyme

A few juniper berries

250ml duck fat

50g unsalted clarified butter

A splash of cold-pressed rapeseed oil

Good salt and pepper

Armagnac – or flavouring of choice

METHOD

Firstly, mix the course salt, garlic, sugar, star anise, thyme and juniper berries. Rub this into the duck legs and leave in the fridge overnight to cure and take on the flavours.

The next day, rinse the duck legs under a tap and pat dry. Heat the duck fat in a saucepan to 150°C, then submerge the legs and gently confit for 3 to 4 hours.

Next, carefully remove the legs from the fat - you can retain this fat for roasting potatoes, or wilting veg. Once they are cool, remove the skin and the bones from each leg. The skin makes a tasty snack if crisped-up under a grill.

Flake the duck meat into a clean bowl and add some flavouring. I like Armagnac, but you can use anything you fancy. Herbs are good too. Give it a really good beat with a spoon or whisk until it’s quite smooth, then spoon into a dish or kilner jar. Smooth over the top and pour a mix of melted, clarified butter and rapeseed oil on the top to prevent any oxidization.

Allow to set in the fridge until firm. It’s delicious served with pickles, warm toast, and chutney.

Shortcrust Pastry in Nine Easy Steps

Follow Neil’s simple step-by-step guide to making shortcrust pasty and you’ll no longer reach for the pre-rolled variety!

STEP ONE

You will need: 250g of sifted plain flour, 125g diced unsalted butter, 5g salt, 2-3 tablespoons of cold water

STEP TWO

Add butter to the flour and rub together until the texture of breadcrumbs.

STEP THREE

Stir in the salt, then add water and mix to a firm dough.

STEP FOUR

Form into a ball, cover with cling film and allow to rest in the fridge for 20 minutes.

STEP FIVE

Prepare a tart tin with butter and flour. Rub a little room-temperature butter all over the inside of the tin, then dust with flour.

STEP SIX

Roll the rested dough on a floured surface.

STEP SEVEN

Line the prepared tart tin with the rolled dough.

STEP EIGHT

Line the pastry dough with 4 layers of cling film, then fill with baking beans.

STEP NINE

Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180°C for 40 minutes or until just golden.

NEIL'S RECIPES: GRIDDLED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH WILD GARLIC PESTO

“If you choose a vegetarian dish in a restaurant, it may contain mushrooms as they’re packed full of flavour. Here they’re served with an easy-to-make wild garlic pesto, made with any nuts you prefer. If you can’t find these big mushrooms, replace them with chestnut or button. And remember to season well.”

Serves 4
Prep time 20 minutes, cooking time 10 minutes

INGREDIENTS
8 large Portobello mushrooms, brushed clean and wiped with a damp cloth
250ml organic extra-virgin olive oil
50g hard cheese, grated
50g lightly-toasted hazelnuts or walnuts
A handful of washed and dried wild garlic
A few salad leaves
Good salt and pepper

METHOD
Place a griddle pan onto the hob and get it quite hot. Season the mushrooms, cut them in half and rub with a little olive oil, then place on the griddle until browned with the bar marks of the griddle, or even cook on the BBQ if it’s on. Cook for about 10 minutes, seasoning as you go and give another trickle of oil to the pan if it needs it.

Next, make the pesto by simply adding most of the wild garlic to a liquidiser with the cheese, nuts and remaining oil with a good pinch of salt and pepper. Blitz until the ingredients are all incorporated. The longer you blend, the smoother it will be. I like it quite chunky.

To serve, spoon the pesto onto warmed plates and place the mushrooms on the centre of the pesto. Scatter a few salad leaves around the edge of the plate. Wilt the retained garlic leaves on the griddle and drape these over the mushrooms.

NEIL'S RECIPES: CROWDIE AND RHUBARB CHEESECAKE

“I love this recipe; it’s simple and tastes great. Crowdie is a soft cheese with a slightly granular texture, so give it a good whip. Adding honey works well, and either forced Yorkshire or garden rhubarb are fine. This keeps well in the fridge for a good few days.”

Makes 1 cake

INGREDIENTS

500g crowdie

500g semi-whipped cream, ribbon stage

8 egg yolks

6 leaves of gelatin

1 organic unwaxed lemon, finely zested

2 tbsps of honey (or to taste)

350g caster sugar

100g water

10 digestive biscuits or similar

75g butter, melted

A few stalks of rhubarb

1 vanilla pod

Zest of 1 orange

METHOD

Line the bottom of a 10-inch spring form cake tin with butter and a disc of silicon paper.

The day before you want to serve, blitz the biscuits into crumbs in a processor, then add the melted butter and half the lemon zest. Mix well and push into the bottom of the prepared tin. Chill for an hour.

Add 150g of caster sugar to a pot with the water and boil until it reaches 121°C - check with a digital thermometer. If you don’t have one, aim for a ‘soft ball’ texture. Allow to cool slightly.

Next, beat the yolks and gradually trickle in the sugar mix. Whisk until it’s voluminous. Cool for about 5 minutes.

Break up the crowdie and beat gently in a bowl. Add the semi-whipped cream and fold in the egg yolk mix.

Soak the gelatin leaves in cold water for 5 minutes. Then heat the honey in a small pot before mixing in the softened leaves. Add this honey mix to the cheesecake mix with the remaining lemon zest. Mix well and add to the biscuit base. Refrigerate overnight.

The following day, cut the rhubarb into batons about 3-inches long and spread out on an oven-proof tray or dish. Top with the remaining caster sugar, seeds from the vanilla pod and the orange zest.

Bake the rhubarb gently on a moderate heat for 15 to 20 minutes - don't overcook or it will turn to mush. Drain the syrup into a clean pan and reduce to a jam consistency. Allow the rhubarb to cool.

When ready to eat, remove the cheesecake from the tin by running a hot, wet, sharp knife around the edge of the tin to release it. Top with the rhubarb syrup and serve with a few batons of rhubarb.