The Sportsman in Whitstable, Kent, is on my list of places that I simply must visit. You’d be forgiven for thinking it’s a run-of-the-mill pub by the sea, but they have been awarded a Michelin star, and many other accolades. 

Chef Stephen Harris’s wonderful cookbook illustrates his simple yet elegant approach to food.  The act of cooking simply, is not as easy as it sounds. Ingredients must be considerately bought, prepared, cooked and served, and this cookbook epitomises seasonal British cooking. 

Stephen is from the Mark Hix camp: take a few ingredients and serve them well. I so admire this approach. It doesn’t have to be Nordic-inspired or copied and pasted from another chef. No fancy frivolities here, just some old wooden tables and linen napkins. It all sounds perfect, and the light will be spectacular at all times of year. 

Harris’s recipe for greengage soufflé with greengage ripple ice cream almost brings a tear to my eye. I wish more places would do this. You will struggle to find something like this anywhere else. I must go there. Who said cooking is an emotional experience…